Design and Shaping Techniques of Old Noritake

Design and Shaping Techniques of Old Noritake

The design is rich in international influences and timely

The first designer of Morimura Brothers, Waki Matsutaro, traveled back and forth between Japan and the United States more than a dozen times, working to transmit the latest American trends to Japanese artisans. 

On weekends, he would visit parks, stand at the corner of Fifth Avenue in New York where dressed-up people gathered during events like Easter and Christmas, and observe them all day. From women's hats and clothing, he quickly grasped the latest fashion trends and created sketchbooks to capture those designs, which were then sent back to Japan and applied to porcelain.

However, this was a time before fax machines and email. The sketchbooks had to be transported from New York by transcontinental railroad and then by ship to Yokohama, taking a considerable amount of time. Moreover, to keep up with the fast pace of fashion, they developed a system to complete and ship porcelain products in a short time, ensuring that they stayed on trend.

Old Noritake consistently adopted the cutting-edge designs of the times, from the Victorian era to Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Their designs merged international influences with traditional styles, resulting in sophisticated artistic beauty. The porcelain they created charmed collectors around the world and won their affection.

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Transition in Design

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Classic (Victorian-style)

Understanding that Western users preferred the extravagant and luxurious ceramics of European dynasties, Old Noritake undertook a major design transformation. The early works of Old Noritake were characterized by magnificent forms in the style of the Victorian era, with abundant use of cobalt and gold. Techniques like raised decorations and etching were developed, creating an elegant luxury. Many types of products, including vases, decorative jars, tea sets, smoking accessories, and vanity items, were made primarily as fancy wares, contributing to Old Noritake's established appeal with their beauty.

Art Nouveau

Art Nouveau became an explosive trend following the 1900 Paris Exposition. It broke away from the academic, formal art styles of the time, using free materials and motifs, allowing for bold expression across various fields. Famous examples of architecture from this movement include Barcelona's Sagrada Familia and the entrances to the Paris Metro. In the realm of crafts, glasswork by Émile Gallé became renowned. In art, motifs of plants, insects, and animals were common, many of which appeared in Old Noritake's designs. Flowing curves in pastel tones were a characteristic feature.

Art Deco

With the onset of World War I, the trend shifted from the ornamental Art Nouveau to Art Deco, influenced by Cubism, ancient Egyptian and Aztec designs, and other global styles, including Japanese and Chinese. Art Deco was characterized by geometric patterns and contrasts created with primary colors. It became popular due to its ability to harmonize mass production with design aesthetics. In 1925, at the Paris International Exposition of Decorative Arts (also known as the Art Deco Exposition), Art Deco flourished. Old Noritake during the Taisho period embraced this design style, incorporating mold techniques to create three-dimensional products with lustre finishes, which received high acclaim.

Shaping Techniques

■Moriage/Slip-trailed decoration

Moriage is a technique where clay is built up on the surface of porcelain to create a three-dimensional decoration. It is one of the most well-known techniques of Old Noritake and is also referred to as "Moriage" in Western countries.
There are various techniques within Moriage as follows:

Icchin-Mori/Icchin relief

This technique uses a tool called "Icchin" (a brush tool), which is still used in pottery today. Icchin is believed to be named after the Japanese Edo-period painter Icchinsai (a pen name of Kusumi Morikage). Originally, the tool was used to paint the dye lines in Kyo-yuzen and Kaga-yuzen textiles. By replacing the dye with slip (a mixture of clay and water), it allows for delicate expressions on the surface of porcelain. Due to its ability to create beautiful decoration, works decorated with this technique are highly valued.

Kin-Mori/Gold relief


This technique involves painting on bisque-fired porcelain, then applying a slip to create dots or patterns. The piece is then fired again, after which gold slip is applied using a brush or a tool, making the design appear as if it is raised in gold, creating a luxurious effect.

Kin-Ten-Mori (Beading)/Dotted gold relief

In this method, dots are raised on bisque-fired porcelain using an Icchin tool and then fired. Gold is carefully applied to each dot, requiring great precision and patience. This technique is incredibly fine and results in a beautiful decoration.

Aqua Beading

Using a light blue slip to create beaded designs, this technique gives the appearance of water bubbles, and it is highly valued for its rarity and aesthetic appeal.

Enamel Mori (Jewel)/Jewel-like Enamel Decoration

This technique is often used in combination with gold decoration. Enamel is raised in dots using a syringe-like tool over gold decoration, creating a gem-like beauty, which is why it is referred to as "Jewel."

Wedgwood Style

A signature method of the British company Wedgwood involves using clay to create cameo-like patterns that are affixed to the porcelain. Old Noritake pieces appear similar to Wedgwood’s jasperware, but instead of using molds, they are raised using tools such as Icchin, bamboo spatulas, or brushes. This reflects the influence of Wedgwood.

Other Moriage Techniques

Other techniques include "Slip Moriage”, ,"Spiderweb Moriage",”Lace Moriage", ”Galle-style Moriage" and more, all of which employ a variety of methods.

■Other Shaping Techniques

Apart from Moriage, Old Noritake porcelain also features unique shaping techniques as follows:

Kusarashi, Kin-Kusarashi/Glaze Etching)

This technique uses etching, which was referred to as “Furashi" in the Morimura group. Areas to remain intact are covered with coal tar, and the porcelain is then immersed in hydrofluoric acid solution. Areas without coal tar are corroded, losing their gloss and developing indentations. After coloring or gilding, the matte finish contrasts with the glossy areas covered with coal tar. Due to its distinctive texture, this technique is considered a hallmark of Old Noritake.

Tapestry (Fabric Finish)

After the shaping of soft, unbaked porcelain, coarse fabrics like linen or fine fabrics like silk are applied to the surface. Upon firing, the fabric burns away, leaving only the fabric pattern. Painting over this creates a texture similar to oil painting on canvas, giving the piece a unique look. This technique is rare and has high collectible value.

Coralene

The name "Coralene" originates from the English word Coralene, meaning "coral-like." This technique was named for the fine beaded texture that resembles the feel of coral.

It is a delicate and intricate decorative method in which porcelain is first painted, then adorned with tiny glass beads arranged according to the design, and finally outlined with gold embellishment. The glass bead portions reflect and refract light differently depending on the angle, causing their colors to shift and appear three-dimensional. This effect allows the artwork to be appreciated from various perspectives.

Mold (Relief Shaping with Plaster Mold)

Plaster molds are used to create the shape of the porcelain, and figures or animals are applied on top using clay kneaded with oil. A master model is made from this, and then a working mold is created from plaster or other materials. The mold is filled with slip to create the unbaked porcelain piece, which is then fired at high temperatures (800–1100°C). After painting, the three-dimensional relief is revealed. This labor-intensive method is rare and highly prized.

Painting Techniques of Old Noritake


Noritake porcelain decoration combines traditional Japanese artistry with flexible adoption of European techniques, resulting in rich designs that are highly regarded.

■Hand Painting

The words "Hand Paint" are often marked on the back of Old Noritake pieces (but not always). The decoration is generally hand-painted with the exception of some products partly using transfer paper. Many of the artists were former painters from Japanese feudal domains who were dismissed after the Meiji Restoration. These painters possessed strong technical skills. In the Taisho and Showa periods, well-known Japanese Western-style artists also painted for Noritake. However, because Noritake was an industrial product, the artists' signatures were usually absent. Nevertheless, some pieces may feature hidden signatures, revealing the artist's pride.

Bokashi (Gradation)

Bokashi is a characteristic painting technique often used in Old Noritake pieces. It is a traditional Japanese painting method not commonly found in European ceramics.

Dami


Derived from the Japanese “Dami-e” (The term "Dami-e" refers to paintings created using gold, silver, and vivid primary colors, particularly those on sliding doors and screens, such as the fusuma and byōbu, which were prominent during the Momoyama period, especially in the works of the Kanō school), this technique involves covering the porcelain's surface with patterns or base colors. There are gold Dami and cobalt Dami variations.

Marble (Spray Blown Gradation – Marble Effect)

In this technique, several colors are sprayed to create a marble-like effect, after which the piece is painted. This method, known as "Marble," is popular in America.

Urushi-Maki

To achieve an even coating of underglaze color, Urushi(Japanese lacquer) is first applied with a brush, followed by meticulous smoothing with a tampon. Powdered pigments are then sprinkled over the surface, creating a beautiful, deep, colored base.

Cobalt (Lapis Lazuli)

This color, slightly deeper and richer than conventional cobalt blue, was created using cobalt oxide. It was developed by the Meissen porcelain factory in Germany for use in pottery. Cobalt from the French Sèvres porcelain factory, known as "The Blue of Kings," was especially famous and beloved by European royalty.

Lusterware

Lusterware is often used in Old Noritake's Art Deco pieces. It has a pearl-like shine and was extremely popular with emerging European women in the early 20th century. Lustreware was used in Islamic pottery from the 9th to 14th centuries but fell out of use until it was revived as an Art Deco decoration method. The lustre used here is created by dissolving metals or precious metals in aqua regia, adding balsam, and further processing with rosin to create a workable glaze.

Portraits

This method involves transferring portraits of popular figures like queens and clergy onto porcelain. Famous portraits of figures such as Queen Marie Louise of Prussia and Madame Récamier were often used.